Chicago's Greatest Chefs of All Time
Chicago Chefs Name Their All Time Chicago Chef Mt. Rushmore, Includes Stats, Graphs, Rankings, and all kinds of fun!
When I committed to the idea of asking Chicago chefs (and a few owners who are the identity of their restaurants) to name their personal Chicago Mt. Rushmore (thanks Dave Andrews for proposing this whole idea), I didn’t really calculate the verve with which they’d answer. I figured a few of the 60 or so I reached out to would humor me. I had no idea that 48 souls (media and creators added another 15 - you can read their thoughts here) would commit their time and energy to this. I am truly thankful to all of them.
The answers here are thoughtful. Frankly the chefs wrote more than the “writers”. I love how some people interpreted this as a personal Rushmore vs a city Rushmore. I think I miscommunicated the task to Jonathon Sawyer of Kindling through a couple interpreters and he took it as his personal all time list rather than a Chicago list. The answer was so brilliant, I had to include it here anyway.
What’s also really cool about this survey and the responses is just how wide ranging people’s inspirations are. I love that an OG like Louis Szathmary gets a little love. Tony Hu, the mayor of Chinatown, purveyor of the finest dry chili chicken gets some great mentions too. This whole piece I think and hope someday will eventually represent a beautiful oral history/cultural capture of the minds of Chicago chefs in the year 2023
So let’s get on with it…
It will come as no surprise to most that Charlie Trotter was the favorite for Rushmore in this survey. I knew he would be and so I reached out to Trotter’s son Dylan for a list as a tribute to his dad. (Read below the break)
But, who are the next 3 on the mountain? Who’s joining Charlie?
Chicago’s Mt. Rushmore is:
What’s interesting is that while the total of all voters and the chef selections differed a little, the media and creators selections were slightly different.
Also, here’s the top 20 Mt. Rushmore selections, all voters.
Here’s a breakdown of Rushmore chef votes by a few different categories.
I looked at the Honorable Mention data separately from the Rushmore data. After throwing out Trotter, Achatz, Bayless and Kahan from this data (since they made Rushmore), I was left with this.
Finally, here’s a top ranking of the Honorable Mention list (minus the Rushmore guys)
Finally, I looked across both lists and tallied the highest vote getters under the age of 50, as some of these folks may earn their way onto Chicago Mt. Rushmore someday. Technically Jason Hammel should be on this list as he’s the closest to breaking through to Rushmore, but also he’s 51. I know, dumb and arbitrary. These are not in ranked order.
Alright, that’s it for pretty stats and ranks and graphs. Let’s get on to the fun part, the raw chef essays and data. This stuff is amazing, but also there’s a lot here. It feels like a really interesting almost oral history at times. It’ll take you some time to digest. I hope you love it as much as I do.
All the chefs are listed in alphabetical order by last name, except for Dylan Trotter who gets to go first for obvious reasons.
Best,
Mike Nagrant
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Dylan Trotter, Charlie Trotter’s son
I threw together what I think my dad might have said (though who can be sure?!)
Jean Banchet Traditional French, direct link to Fernand Point (founder of La Pyramide) my father loved him for bringing traditional French Michelin level exellence to Chicago (no dish goes on the menu until it is perfected) (classic preparations)
Jean Joho Charlie enjoyed the blend of the Alsatian and midwestern cusine. Joho also had the connection back to the French masters (he worked for Paul Haeberlin who also worked for La Pyramide). My dad loved Everest also for the level of service (top notch) and a deep / complex wine list.
Roland Liccioni He was classically taught and played with global flavors. He mastered the classic French, following in Banchet’s footsteps, but like Joho, put his own spin on those classics, bringing in the Vietnamese influence. Charlie loved his creativity.
Carrie Nahabedian Carrie hired my dad at Sinclair’s in the beginning of his culinary career. She introduced him to Banchet and was the literal connection to that classic French world. To this day, Carrie has such a strong work ethic, she puts her HEART into providing a fulfilling meal, and it comes through in her cuisine. She knows the classic French techniques but does her own American Contemporary style with Mediterranean influence (European but also African and Middle East). She layers flavors like Charlie. Sourcing the best seasonal products, delicately preparing them, letting the natural flavors and textures lead the way. Everyone should go to Brindille!
Honorable Mentions:
Louis Szathmary, a larger-than-life chicagoan who ran The Bakery, He had the strong personality, was an educator, and wrote many books, which was an inspiration to many chefs.
Fernand Gutierrez, another of the OG French chefs. Studied under Roger Vergé. He would get busboys and dishwashers into the kitchen and help inspire others down a culinary path. A great teacher.
Rick Bayless, whenever my dad was hosting guest chefs from Europe, he felt they needed to try Frontera Grill. In Europe they weren’t experiencing the intense Mexican flavors back then, Charlie would take them to Rick’s to show them powerful flavors.
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Wilson Bauer, Chef/Owner - Flour Power
Charlie Trotter- the food was incredible from what I was told. For me it would be what came from that restaurant that was more influential. Too many great chefs but one of the honorable mentions would be Giuseppe- Boka wouldn’t be able to operate as the hollowed carapace infesting the city with their mids if it wasn’t for GTs greatness. In the early 2010s Boka restaurant was putting out some of the best cooks in the city.
Grant Achatz- I can remember just graduating culinary school and having accidentally ordering two copies of the Alinea cookbook my friend and I would spend hours looking through it, at least I would. He was definitely part of the reason I moved to Chicago him and
Chef Michael Carlson I would hear stories about how Carlson shut his punk rock restaurant down and reopened after rehab with no FoH. The stories that were being told in Seattle were legendary. The way the kitchen cooked and served went on to inspire other restaurants in Chicago, El, Elizabeth, mine. I can say from personal experience, most the food at Elizabeth came from either Trio, Schwa, or the Noma cookbook.
Paul Kahan- there was a time, before bigstar, where every cook that came from one off was a fucking badass. He was also one of the big players in the whole gastro pub/offal eating/ pig and beer scene. Like trotter, the chefs that came from Blackbird are all top of their game and are inspirational themselves.
Honorable Mentions:
Giuseppe Tentori- for reasons above
Jason Hammel- I think his farm dinners (Monday?) really inspired a lot of cooks to think more seasonally, and showed a lot of young cooks that quality of product isn’t the same when ordering from a provider that cares vs a distributor.
Some old French chef guy like Banchet, Roland, Poilevey. None of that did it for me, but I hear those names a lot.
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Johnny Besch, Chef - Bistro Monadnock
Fernand Gutierrez - (Ritz-Carlton in Chicago 1983-?) On the PBS show "Great Chefs Chicago 1984, he made a Quail in an Omelet Pouch that blew my mind! The story goes, that Chef Gutierrez inspired a generation of young chefs, making busboys into chefs and dishwashers into sous chefs. His greatest gift was as a teacher.
Charlie Trotter - Crain’s Chicago Business called him the "Michael Jordan of American cooking"
Jean Joho - He believed trends come and go but the classics never go out of style. I like that.
Grant Achatz - He has pushed the boundaries of the dining landscape here in Chicago and made it possible for the rest of us to test our own limits for what is possible.
Honorable Mentios
Laurent Gras - (L20) I worked for LG in 2009 and I can say from first-hand experience, he is pound for pound the greatest living line cook.
Rick Bayless - Not many Chefs have helped keep the spotlight on Chicago/Mexican food like Rick.
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Duncan Biddulph, Chef/Partner - Rootstock
Jason Hammel’s my guy, so he’s there - Lula is great and all, and it really seems like it always will be. Like, it was a little chaotic when I was there, never really in a scramble to finish a project or whatever, but there were so many ideas everywhere from all of the managers and cooks and everyone. I think it’s always been that way and now it’s still like that, but more curated than just assembled. That’s why he’s up there for me, I know there’s a bunch of other reasons.
Jean-Claude Poilevey. Awesome guy, truly. I only knew him in the dining room at Bouchon, but I think I went like once a month for five years. Bouchon is my favorite dining room in the city and Tuesday nights there felt like a huge deal as a line cook in the aughts. Three courses for $24. I got to know his three sons, and his wife, while working at La Sardine. I met my wife at La Sardine. I’m so happy to see his children, friends, carrying on, and doing it their way. So yeah, pretty huge impact.
Charlie Trotter is a layup answer? I liked cooking programs on tv a lot. And before I knew about careers and restaurant responsibilities and workplace ethics I knew I liked watching g his show, and then I’d get his cookbooks at the library and he blew my mind. Never ate there, never met the guy. He’s had an undeniably massive impact. When the reader was doing that key ingredient thing (rip) I really wanted to pass the challenge on to him, but I psyched myself out.
Grant Achatz man.
Honorable Mention
Isao Totsuka (& Chiyo-san)
Chicago Kalbi is my favorite restaurant in the world.
Shawn McClain. He’s at the top of an insanely talented family tree. Or the roots, I don’t know which one to use.
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Damarr Brown, Chef de Cuisine - Virtue
Charlie Trotter, no one is more iconic in this city, he put Chicago on the culinary map as a serious food town. If you look at who's running the city currently culinary-wise, most of them were impacted directly or indirectly by Trotter.
Grant Achatz, to my knowledge was the first in this city to achieve 3 Michelin stars as well as the world's 50 best list
Mindy Segal, there are a lot of talented pastry chefs in Chicago, but Mindy is the queen of all things pastry in this city, no one has done more in the field, and has been successful in as many iterations of pastry and business as she has.
Rick Bayless, his longevity is undeniable, additionally he took the time to learn Mexican food and culture, and he made sure to hire Mexican people and put them in leadership roles as well as taking his team to Mexico in the past to make sure they understood the food and the narrative. He's the blueprint on how to be inspired by another culture and gracefully celebrate their foodways.
Honorable Mentions
Carrie Nahabedian, Chef Carrie has been intertwined with the culinary story of Chicago and beyond for decades, and not that her staying power and resilience aren't impressive enough, she still physically cooks nightly at her restaurant today, that's almost unheard of.
Erick Williams, no one has done more for the visibility and agency of black chefs in Chicago than him. He is truly recognized as a mentor and as a role model to not only the Chicago culinary community but also nationwide, his broad building of community is felt throughout this industry.
Paul Kahan, is respected everywhere as a leader in this industry. No one has mastered the mixture of upscale rusticity that he has. He's a legend and universally respected no matter where you go. His concepts have achieved a balance of excellence and sustainability that we can all take inspiration from.
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Chris Curren, Chef/Owner - The Graceful Ordinary
Jean Banchet: really transformed the cooking scene in the 80’s at Le Francais. I mean the Chicago Culinary Awards are named after him, he has to be on it.
Charlie Trotter: Love him or hate him, admire him or despise him, Charlie was the epicenter Chicago fine dining for a long time. So many Chef’s that have made a huge impact in turning Chicago into the food city it is today worked in that kitchen and learned from Charlie. I wrote an editorial piece for the Sun Times (when they still had the dining section, but I think before you were there.) it was about how modern technology has a place in cooking but there is real beauty in being able to cook a perfect skin on piece of fish. A couple weeks later I got a letter in the mail from Charlie saying how he had read the article and that we should be proud as a restaurant to work with that mindset.
Grant Achatz: Grant not only revolutionized the Chicago scene in the early 2000’s through now, he’s revolutionized the dining scene in this country for sure and even internationally. He has been the most influential Chef in the (arguably) best dining scene in the country for the last 20 years. And the last 20 years I would argue are the best the city has seen from a talent level.
That’s my 3 that, no question, right no the top. The 4th I have a list that I keep going back and forth on. And I think I’ve finally settled on who I believe the 4th is.
Paul Kahan: he has been a champion for the city and for food. He has been a leader in Chicago restaurants for 30 years and his restaurants last the test of time. I think he’s absolutely the 4th on that list.
Honorable Mentions:
Rick Bayless
Carrie Nahabedian
Jean Joho
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Curtis Duffy, Chef/Owner - Ever & After
Charlie Trotter
Matthias Merges
Grant Achatz
Carrie Nahabedian
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Thai Dang - Chef/Owner - HaiSous
Anna Posey Executive Pastry Chef and Co-Owner of Elske. Her style and technique is original. She is trained as an artist as well which really comes through in her work.
Kaze Chan- he’s doing awesome things for sushi and omakase experience.
Gene Kato- I love his food. He’s a good friend and Boka’s only chef thats helping to mold their Japanese brands.
Mindy Segal - She’s a Chicago icon but has shown us how to stay relevant and adapt to the changes and is a pioneer in her own ways with creating sweets & treats for the marijuana industry.
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Diana Davila, Chef/Owner - Mi Tocaya
Mindy Segal
Charlie Trotter
Rick Bayless
Grant Achatz
Honorable Mentions
Marco Pierre White
Anthony Bourdain
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Brian Enyart, Chef/Owner, most recently Dos Uban Cantina
Jean Banchet : helped put Illinois on the map for fine cuisine
Charlie Trotter : put Chicago on the world stage of cuisine
Rick Bayless : brought authentic Mexican cuisine to the US in a way that was understood, and held up as beautiful in its story and artistry
Grant Achatz : a defining moment in my culinary generation helping to define modern gastronomy. A clear break from the nouvelle cuisine of the Trotter generation
Honorable Mentions
Paul Kahan : to the best of my memory, Paul was the very first chef that I can think of that got cooks excited about staying in the Chicago and not moving to one of the coasts, pivotal moment to help make our city what it is today
Carrie Nahabedian : not only a power house of a chef, but a chef’s chef. Still in the kitchen, not opening a bunch of spaces, quietly and deliberately honing her fine craft
Erick Williams : a cornerstone member of Chicago culinary elite. Been doing this forever and recently getting his spotlight and showing culture and history and neighborhoods and kindness in ways we haven’t seen, way beyond just a wonderful plate of food
As I was thinking about this list, I thought the timing is pretty interesting. It’s seems like we are at a transitional point in the story of our culinary scene. The Rushmore Chefs are people that have helped define and put a spotlight on our city over the last 50-60 years. Moving forward we will see how social media and fame begin to play a larger and larger role into what helps define a culinary scene
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Richard Farina, Chef - Adorn
Charlie Trotter… need I say more , he is the roots of the tree that is the Chicago food scene.
Homaro Cantu - I wouldn’t be in Chicago if it wasn’t for him. A forward thinker ahead of his time and taken way too soon.
Grant Achatz - three Michelin stars helped put Chicago on the food scene map. Probably one of the greatest chefs of my generation.
Carrie Nahabedian- godmother of Chicago food . She helped make trotter who he was.
Honorable Mentions
Curtis Duffy- one of the most artistic and finesseful chefs we have seen in the city. The balance of art and flavor like no other.
Rick Bayless - another foundation of the Chicago food scene .
Stephanie Izard- built the west loop to what it is today with her Goat Empire, helped forge way for new generation of chefs in Chicago
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Larry Feldmeier, Chef de Cuisine - Oriole
There are obviously the big chefs like Grant and Trotter but these are some to me that have really affected so many restaurants and cooks in Chicago. Most I haven’t even worked for but just getting to meet, stage or dine in their restaurants have really stuck with me and I can see there impact in many other restaurants and chefs I worked with.
Roland Liccioni- The impact of Le Francais and Les Nomades have been immense and to get to know Roland and see his work ethic, still in the kitchen now and his excitement about food is motivating.
Paul Kahan- when I was a younger cook 20 years ago now, growing up in the south suburbs and working at a restaurant out there, one of my chefs told me about Avec and Blackbird. I went and that was a big introduction into a different level of restaurant for me.
Jean Joho- Everest setting a bar for service. So many major chefs have come from Everest.
Paul Virant- He seems to have always been on the forefront of preservation and locality as well as showing that restaurants outside the city can be just as great.
Honorable Mentions
Thomas Lents has been one of the biggest mentors for me and my career really showing me how important storytelling as well as standards are. (Also coming from Everest)
Also have to shout out Noah Sandoval. It has been great to be at Oriole and see how important it is for him to take care of his staff, showcase all thier talents and have so much focus on what the guest experience is. Most restaurant say that but really this is a special place to work and dine down to every detail only made that way by having staff motivated with pride in the restaurant.
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Norman Fenton, Chef/Partner - Cariño
Michael Carlson- a cutting edge chef not only with an arsenal of flavor combinations, innovated a new way of a dining experience
Grant Achatz- mastermind of modern molecular cuisine in a way the city nor the states had seen before.
Rick Bayless- has built an empire and machine that pioneers many different avenues of dining in the city( and has been doing it longer then most us have been cooking)
Paul Kahan - one off hospitality group enough said
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Joe Flamm – Chef/Partner - Rosemary
Tony Mantuano
Jean Banchet
Charlie Trotter
Stephanie Izard
Honorable Mentions
Paul Kahan
Erick Williams
Rick Bayless
I think with the top 4 it’s kind of obvious, but Tony really brought Italian fine dining to Chicago, has a tree of chefs he mentored thats insane and still had the only Michelin-starred Italian restaurant to ever exist in Chicago.
Jean Banchet really feels like the granddaddy of the chefs of this city and he put Chicago fine dining on the map.
Trotter really for people who came out of there, it’s level of status, and it really being the top for so long.
Stephanie has won every award, crushed in the West Loop when people said restaurant row was done, created one of the most unique restaurants in the city in Girl and the Goat, while being the counter culture of that time to all the fine dining, tweezer-jockey bros of the time in Chicago, while also being one of the most influential female chefs on the fucking planet.
I think an argument could definitely be made for Grant [Achatz] on there as well no doubt, but that almost kind of feels like comparing Lebron to Jordan.
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Joseph Fontelera, Chef/Owner - Boonies
Tim Flores and Genie Kwon
Takashi Yagihashi
Carlos Gaytan
Erick Williams
While great success within what's generally expected is still impressive and an achievement, I feel as though these chefs really break the mold and achieve high while also opening doors and encouraging the dreams for many more.
I have way too many honorable mentions whom I feel like I can't justify over the other. Chicago is just such a great food city with so many people doing great and important work in their own way!
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Joe Frillman , Chef/Owner - Daisies
Jean Banchet
Charlie Trotter
Jason Hammel
Paul Kahan
Honorable Mentions:
Rick Bayless
Roland Liccioni
Tony Mantuano
My thought process was lineage mostly, but also considering folks who changed the game.
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Jason Hammel, Chef/Owner Lula Cafe
Ideas: this is very arbitrary and off the cuff
Carrie Nahabedian
so hard working (on the line still? Yes), most principled, focused on execution and deliciousness first and foremost, a true Jedi for me.
Sarah Stegner
community builder, huge inspiration as a leader in an even more heavily male dominated era than todays
Erick Williams
friendship and community are a virtue. I can’t tell you the number of times he’s checked in on me, as a friend. He leads by example, always.
Tony Mantuano
you run one of the most influential and delicious italian restaurants in the country and mentor Joe, Sarah and Missy?!?!
Could just as well have been:
Paul Kahan
Mindy Segal
Mathias Merges
Rick Bayless
Or another version:
Michael Carlson
Andrew Zimmerman
Jason Vincent
Diana Davila
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Jennifer Kim, Chef de Cuisine - Proxi
This was a lot harder than I thought! How do you narrow down a GIANT list of chefs + people who have made historical and personal impacts on the Chicago food scene?!
Mariya Moore-Russell
Beverly Kim
BK Park
Jason Hammel
Honorable Mentions
Andrew Zimmerman
Margaret Pak
Tigist Reda
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Nathan Kim, Chef de Cuisine - Obelix
In no particular order and as we know all of these individuals are all deeply interconnected.
Jean Banchet -the legendary Le Francais -laid the French foundations in Chicago, putting the city as a dining destination on a national scale. Too many alum to note but again, deep roots, lasting influence on the city.
Charlie Trotter - enough said - produced chefs like John Shields, Matthias Merges,Bill Kim,Giuseppi Tentori, Grant Achatz, Rick tramonto and countless more. Charlie’s lighter, more fresh style of French cooking, his obsessiveness with sourcing the best produce, these are all standards which really shifted what fine dining in Chicago looked like.
Laurent Gras - one of Chicagos most under appreciated and maybe misunderstood chefs. Perhaps the most skilled chef to work in this city ever. His interplay of French roots with a deep reverence of Japanese produce and technique at the highest level was truly something special to witness. L2O receiving 3 stars then him resigning the next day is still burned into my memory. Chicago wasn’t fully ready for what he had to offer.
Paul Kahan, maybe never intended to but really reshaped how chicagoans ate from Blackbird to the Publican. Never worked for the man but if we are speaking about influential Paul might be at the top of my list.
Honorable Mentions but by no means any less influential on a scale.
Matthew Kirkley -again in the same vein as Laurent, a true technician that wasn’t appreciated enough imo.
Michael Carlson
Jason Vincent
Jared Wentworth
Paul Virant
Lee Wolen
Rick Bayless
Homaru Cantu
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Won Kim, Chef/Partner -Kimski
Charlie Trotter - The OG, the reason why any fine dining aficionados give a shit about our city. The family tree out of Trotters is probably one of best chef lineages out there. I would say he put Chicagos fine dining scene on the map.
Bill Kim - Made fast Asian food accessible and educational to the masses in Chicago. Elevated the Korean food game and trailblazed what quality fast Asian food can be.
Paul Kahan - Brought the middle ground culinary food scene into play. Fine dining aesthetic and mantra but at an affordable and reasonable price point. Has every concept for every budget in Chicago.
Grant Achatz - Revitalized what it meant to have 3 stars. He single handed my created what was to become a global phenomenon and Chicago is fortunate to have a chef of this caliber be part of the culinary landscape. Say what you will about him as a person or his policies, you can’t deny what a behemoth he is in the food world
Jason Hammel - Farm to table legend. Really established what it means to utilize the seasons to its fullest and no short cuts to how a neighborhood restaurant should be. It’s the epitome of what a restaurant should strive to be and is welcoming to all walks of life and just one of the smartest restaurants in the world.
Michael Carlson - the “alternative” fine dining approach who marched to the beat of his own drums. Never ironic or performative with the exclusivity of Schwa. Just did what makes sense to him and has spawned a new way of fine dining that didn’t give a fuck but gave a lot of fucks.
Rick Bayless - Dude does his research and is an advocate for the regionality of his cuisine. He has always been passionate without being exploitative and stays in his lane unlike a lot of other chefs who take/steal from other cultures to make a buck. —
Ethan Lim, Chef/Owner -Hermosa
Momma Lim... of course. Her influence on me and lessons to her children in building multiple restaurants in the family.
Laura Piper. She was my first instructor at Kendall and is an amazing mentor. Former executive chef at Hugo's and Gibsons, has mentored many aspiring young chefs, and a constant champion for them.
Sara Stegner. Green City Market. 2 Beards. The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton. She is pivotal in shaping how we eat with the farm to table movement in the city.
Cara Nahabedian. An absolute encyclopedia of Chicago food history. I just want to have brunch with her and listen to all her stories. Also can't forget all the philanthropic work.
Honorable Mentions
Rick Bayless. Cheerleader of a culture and properly referencing it.
Erick Williams. Not just for his work at Virtue, but starting at MK.
Grant Achatz. Dining as an experience, and holding the most Michelin stars in Chicago.
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Josh Kulp, Chef/Owner - Honey Butter Fried Chicken
Efrain Flores - El Asadero on Montrose I’ve been eating steak tacos at El Asadero for nearly 30 years and the consistency, the seasoning, the spicy salsa verde and the char on the steak makes me so happy. Day in day out, his family run spot is a marvel.
Jonathan Goldsmith - We are fortunate to have many great pizzerias in Chicagoland, but I admire Jonathan for his vision, his focus, and his incredible generosity of spirit. His joy and commitment to his dough and his craft is infectious and inspiring.
Sandra Holl - Floriole Bakery Sandra just pours her heart in to her pastries and her craft. I’ve seen her work over many many years, and she not only uses the best flours and best ingredients, she let’s us all taste French baked goods at a level that reaches the best of France and at times exceeds it.
Jason Hammel Community deliciousness based on our local markets and artisans. Jason puts in the work and has spent a career committed to excellence and decency.
Erick Williams- Good lord, this man and his outstanding team make food that is craveable, unforgettable, rooted and essential. And he’s also an extraordinary caretaker, checking in with folks and working everyday to improve our city and industry.
I literally could go on forever. It’s important to me that this list be conveyed as a snapshot. There are so so many important chefs, both known and unknown who have made our food world a little more joyous and inspiring. To create a short list is very very challenging
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Mark Mendez, Chef/Partner - Libertad & Estacion
Charlie Trotter
Paul Karan
Rick Bayless
Jason Hammel
Honorable Mentions
Mindy Segal
Michael Foley
Jean Claude Poilevey
1. I remember almost all 12 courses I had at a dinner at Charlie Trotters in 1996. That’s how good it was. I was a line cook at Spiaggia, another cook and I went for dinner to see what it was all about. You have to remember there was no internet then. Everything was just word of mouth. My brain melted during that meal. I remember the course that fucked me up. It was a small bowl, at the bottom, crispy nuggets of sweetbreads, on top was a super smooth buttery potato purée with roasted chestnuts inside, and a black truffle beef jus drizzled on top. That tasted like luxury. I tried to get a job there but it didn’t work out. I’m still pissed at myself about it. Look at the chefs that came out of that kitchen. That’s all you need to know.
2. Paul Kahan changed the game. I remember the first time I ate at Blackbird, the first time I ate at Avec, and the first time I ate at the Publican. There was a dish at Bkackbird, crispy sweetbreads with molasses butter sauce. So simple, so fucking good. The first time I ever ate pork belly was at Blackbird. I even remember when Paul was sous chef at Erwin. How good that place was, I ate there quite a few times.
3. As someone that cooks Hispanic food, I have to give Rick Bayless a lot of respect. He was doing regional Mexican food way before it was the thing. Not only that but what he has done for farmers is amazing. The effect he has had on our city, our industry is incredible. Not only that but I can’t imagine going to the airport without having a torta.
4. When I worked at Carnivale, I was fortunate enough to be able to go to the Green City Market every week. The only other chef I saw there week in and week out was Jason Hammel (and Jason Vincent)I had brunch at Lula a few times and both times their breakfast burritos helped me get through soul crushing hangovers.
Honorable Mentions
Mindy Segal is a force and has been so for many years. She’s still pushing boundaries today. I say make a Mt Rushmore with five heads so Mindy can be included.
I don’t feel like Michael Foley gets any love. Printers Row was open over twenty years. He was way ahead of his time.
What can you say about Jean Claude? I ate at Le Bouchon as a young cook and was blown away. The cassoulet I had there was one of the best things I have ever eaten in my life. He is missed.
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John Manion, Chef/Owner - El Che Steakhouse
I took this assignment as my personal Mount Rushmore, so I'll skip over the obvious Trotter/Banchet/Achatz and get to the Real-Real
Paul Kahan - if you started your career in Chicago in the last 20 years and aren't a tweezer-head, you have been influenced by PK, whether you know it or not. I remember dining at Blackbird for the first time and thinking "oh, okay. I'm doing this wrong". He defined Midwestern cuisine, and more specifically CHICAGO cuisine for the 21st century and then redefined the way we eat at AVEC a few years later. All this while being a humble, mellow cool guy, infinitely generous with his time and talent.
Dean Zanella - in my estimation one of the most underrated Chicago chefs in the modern Era. One of the first young chefs to embrace farm-to-table regional italian cuisine without pomp, circumstance or artifice. Dean taught me the importance of ingredients, technique and patience. In a different Era he was also a great role model: you don't have to be a raging asshole to command respect in the kitchen.
Paul Wildermuth - Paul was the coolest motherfucker I've ever met. He went after life hard and you could feel that in his cooking. At both Red Light and Opera he introduced flavors, techniques and presentations that were mind-blowing for the time. I think about him often, they just don't make them like Paul anymore.
Jean Claude Poilevey - if you know me, you know that JC had a huge influence on me. From the moment I met him in '95 I knew he was the template for how I wanted my career to go and how I wanted to run a small business. Uncompromising, generous, hilarious… first ballot hall of famer. The fact that you cannot get a reservation at Bouchon these days is a testament to him as a chef, father and human being. The fucking best.
Honorable Mentions
Mark Mendez - hands down one of the best cooks I've ever worked with. Vera was a restaurant we didn't deserve. Criminally undervalued as a chef, happy to see him finally being recognized.
Erick Williams - held it down for MK forever. No one deserves success as much as Erick. He inspires and challenges. A great man doing great work (I don't say this lightly). If I didn't consider him a contemporary I'd put him in the top 4 (which is where he will end up).
Mindy Segal - has forgotten more about pastry production than most bakers working today will ever know. One of the all-time pastry chefs, an even better baker. Happy to see her killing it in her 3rd act and thrilled to see her the happiest she's ever been.
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Matthias Merges, Chef/Owner - Billy Sunday & Mordecai
Charlie Trotter
Of course CHT has to be on the list. Uncompromising perfectionist even as we tried to define what perfectionism was or really meant. The ultimate disruptor in the world of cuisine and service. First on so many experiences we all take for granted….
Jean Banchet
Bringing the seriousness of french fine dining first to the Playboy Club in Lake Geneva and then to his tour de force Le Francais which set the bar for dining not only in Chicago but the rest of US.
Louis Szathmary
The Chef owner of The Bakery…..author, cookbook collector, philanthropist but most of all no one had more presence and genuine hospitality than Chef Louis.
Tony Hu
Even though he was taken down by the feds, Chef Hu brought credibility and professionalism to the Chicago Chinese restaurant landscape.
Honorable Mentions
Jean Joho- great chef and mentor
Grant Achatz - visionary
Michael Foley-Printers Row, the first real serious farm to table/ local chef to be on the Chicago scene.
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Leigh Omilinsky, Chef/Partner - Daisies
Charlie Trotter. I remember watching his very awkward TV show when I was younger and not working in kitchens. He put Chicago on the map as a Fine Dining Destination and not just steakhouses and pizza.
Rick Bayless- An institution. I remember eating at Frontera in the mid 90's and it blew my mind. I had never had anything close to those flavors before. Not only has he respected the culture that he is representing, but still being in business after 30 years- amazing.
Jason Hammel- What is Chicago without Lula? Being a young cook and going to Lula's unpretentious dining room with food that rivaled anything I was doing in super fine dining establishments made me think about what Hospitality is. His attention to local ingredients, treating his employees with respect and care as well as doing good in the community is unmatched.
Mindy Segal-The Queen Bee! Pastry Chef's generally have to justify their existence, and this person has helped pave the way. She's The Queen.
Honorable Mentions:
Jean Banchet- Maybe he should be on the monument? Not quite sure. He brought traditional French cuisine to the burbs which is just wild.
Grant Achatz- While I've never worked at Alinea, I remember being in Colorado in 2005-2006 when Alinea first opened and my chef showed me pictures of what Alinea was doing. My mind was blown. I thought "Why am I in Colorado when my home town has things like THIS?" I moved back in 2006, but that moment was the deciding factor in me leaving Colorado.
Paul Kahan-Trailblazer. How many amazing cooks and chefs have worked for Paul?
Can I mention Laurent Gras even though he's not in Chicago? He's amazing.
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Dave Park, Chef/Owner - Jeong
Charlie Trotter
I feel as if he put Chicago on the map on an international stage like no one before him.
Grant Achatz
He consistently pushes ideas and took the next step in redefining fine dining here in Chicago on a global stage, he was the reason I came out to Chicago (besides Jen).
Jean Banchet
I heard stories of how people would fly in from all over the world just to dine at Le Francais in the suburbs of Chicago and to me as a young cook, I was mesmerized.
Rick Bayless
I feel like you can’t mention success of restaurants without mentioning Rick Bayless, he put Mexican cuisine on the same level as French or Italian.
Honorable Mentions
John Shields
I’ve for so many years admired him as a chef and no one does food like he does here in Chicago and maybe never will.
Paul Kahan
A lot of chefs that are making a name for themselves here in Chicago have come through his kitchens at some point. He brought a cool atmosphere to the Chicago dining scene.
Jean Joho
Everest has been a staple of Chicago fine dining for like 30 years and had many chefs come through its kitchen.
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Ethan Pikas, Chef/Owner - Cellar Door Provisions
Bunny of Atta Girl: When they were at Rootstock and Cafe Marie Jeanne—and as I'm sure will be the case at Atta Girl—they were willing to take risks with their menu in a way I found evocative and inspiring.
Jason Hammel of Lula Cafe: He's demonstrated to the city of Chicago and beyond that you can run a Midwestern farm-to-table restaurant and be successful. And he's a gracious and supportive fellow restaurateur.
Matthias Merges of Billy Sunday, Mordecai: He has the bearing of an old school French chef. When you're in a room with Matthias Merges it's like you're in the presence of Paul Bocuse.
Ethan Lim of Hermosa: He exudes kindness while being such a capable chef and business owner. He's completely thought through the pitfalls of entrepreneurship.
Nick Lessins and Lydia Esparza of Great Lake pizza: They are thoroughly committed to sourcing and creating simple, soulful, perfectly executed cuisine.
Honorable Mentions:
Beverly Kim
Jonathan Ory of (now closed) Bad Wolf Coffee
Jonathan Zaragoza
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Oliver Poilevey, Chef/Owner - Le Bouchon, Obelix & Taqueria Chingon
Jean Banchet- The OG. Put Chicago culinary scene on the map with his restaurant Le Francais. Could have had a Bocuse like impact (they did their apprenticeship together at fernand point’s la pyramide) but was content running his restaurant in wheeling. Very meticulous and intense chef, not someone you wanted to send a piece of overcooked fish to if you were a line cook. But also a very generous man with a huge heart and even bigger personality
Paul Kahan- Greatest of the Chicago born chefs. Pioneer of communal dining, the west loop, sourcing, and many other things. Mentor to a whole generation of Chicago chefs including myself. Humble, kind man but strong when he needs to be. Can ruin your day with one disappointed dad look. The best pork cooker I know
Jean Claude Poilevey- Master of the classics, pioneer of the Lincoln Park, Bucktown and west loop neighborhoods. Real country chef who’s probably served more escargot and rabbit than anyone in the city over his 40+ years owning restaurants here. Amazing leader who loved people, loved his restaurants, loved his staff and became friends with many of the people who came through his doors. Loved and missed by many.
Rick Bayless- Great teacher and student. Has inspired many through his restaurants, shows and books. Although he has reached great success in media he is still at his restaurants all the time. His life’s work is bringing people together through food.
Honorable Mentions
John Manion- The fire king. Represents all the things you need to be a great chef. Is currently at his prime as a chef in his 50s, which is rare. Also a great mentor to many
Jean Joho- owned the French scene in the 90s and early 00s. When he handled produce you can see that he was born to cook. True champion of French and more specifically Alsatian cuisine
Noah Sandoval- Had the best meal of my life at Oriole in 2018. Very skilled at a lot of different cuisines which makes for an amazing tasting menu experience.
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Jake Potashnick, Chef/Owner - Feld
Charlie Trotter – Let me be clear, I do not like that Charlie Trotter is on my Mount Rushmore. I don’t want him here. But if we are talking about the most influential Chef in Chicago history, I don’t know who else it could be. His alumni list includes a strong percentage of Chicago's current most-influential Chefs. The fact that the restaurant space has been closed for a decade and yet still haunts that little stretch of Armitage with an ominous sense of history and lore speaks for itself.
Erwin Drechsler – If you never made it to the now closed Erwin’s, the restaurant in Lakeview where Chef Erwin Drechsler plied his trade for nearly two decades, then I truly feel bad for you. Incredible talents like Paul Kahan and Mindy Segal passed through his kitchen, and his training shows in their food to this day. One of the truly underrated Chicago greats.
Rick Bayless – There is no denying that Rick Bayless is a talented chef, restaurateur, and businessman. But Chef Bayless does not make Mount Rushmore for his cooking (even though it’s very good), he makes it because he proved that a Chicago restaurant could highlight Midwestern produce and support local farms, long before that was a popular thing to do. I visit a lot of farms, and almost all of them have gotten a grant from his organization. That’s worth more to a legacy than just the plates dished out in a restaurant.
Henry Adaniya – I cheated. Henry was not a Chef, but instead the owner of the now-closed Trio Restaurant in Evanston. Has any restaurant in Chicago history fostered more Head Chef talent while simultaneously changing dramatically to support the vision of each of those Chefs? Rick Tramonto, Gale Gand, Shawn McClain, and most famously it’s the restaurant that brought Grant Achatz to Chicago. In many ways putting Henry Adaniya on this list allows me to skip having to name each of those Chefs individually.
Honorable Mentions
Danny “The Turk” Denizman and William “Billy Goat” Sianis– In a city filled with dive restaurants and bars, two stand out for both their history and influence. The Half Shell founded by Danny Denizman in 1968 and the Billy Goat Tavern founded by William Sianis in 1934 but moved to its famous subterranean location in 1964. It’s not hard to picture Chicago legends like Studs Terkel, Mike Royko, Del Close, Bud Freeman, or 'The Boss' himself Richard Daley swinging through either of these spots for a bite to eat. Now that’s a legacy.
Honorable Honorable Mentions: Carrie Nahabedian, Sarah Stegner, Yoshi Katsumara, Jean Blanchet, Jason Hammel, Michael Carlson.
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Tony Priolo, Chef/Partner Piccolo Sogno
Gabino Sotelino- icon who helped put fine dining on the Map
Carrie Nahabedian- one of the best leaders in the community who can really cook From her heart
Erick Williams- he set the mark for the food he does and his passion for the industry is relentless
Tony Mantuano- he brought Italian food from neighborhood food to True Italian food
Honorable Mentions:
Paul Kahan
Roland Liccioni
John Hogan
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Dan Raskin, Owner - Manny’s Deli
Charlie Trotter
Rick Bayless
Art Smith
Grant Achatz
Stephanie Izard
Honorable Mentions
Jean Joho
Tony Mantuano
Erick Williams
Jean Banchet
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Alexis Thomas-Rice & Eve Studnicka, Chefs/Owners - Funeral Potatoes
Sebastian Vargo & Taylor Hanna from Vargo Brother Ferments
(We aspire to be as creative, consistent, ethical, and skilled as these two. They have been an inspiration to us from day one)
Dina Cimarusti from Sugarmoon Bakery
(Easily our favorite pastries in the city. We think about her s’mores cookies at least three times a week)
Henry Zimmerman from Le Bouchon. (Every time we think his cooking can’t possibly level up any more, it does)
Q Ibraheem from Ghetto Sesame Street
(Alternative dining queen. Her cooking is so unique and playful and her ethos is refined and impactful)
Honorable Mentions
Juan Mediola and Adriana Bran from Taqueria San Juanito (their tripas tacos are some of the best cooking we’ve ever experienced and we don’t even like intestines)
Jordan Wimby from The Melanin Martha (a force of nature and future celebrity - mark our words. She embodies both the past and the future in her cooking in a way that feels alchemical)
Christian Hunter from Atelier (we didn’t know how much we wished a chef like him existed in our city - and we are so amazed that he does now)
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Maxwell Robbins, Culinary Director - Lettuce Entertain You
Grant Achatz
Why? Won worlds best restaurant, was a founding father of avant-garde and molecular cuisine in America (something Chicago was THE destination for when it was THE thing to do in the cooking world). And he probably has the most amount of chefs who passed through his restaurant who went to run or own Michelin style restaurants. Also had tons of cooks move to Chicago to work there - even if they didn’t have fun or last too long there.
Jean Banchet
Was maybe the first chef to take Chicago from a national dining destination to a world class city for refined dining. Popularized French cuisine which became the modern basis for most high level cooking thereafter. The true founder of Chicagos fine dining. Had countless award winning chefs work there - probably your favorite chef’s mentor’s mentor worked at Le Frances. Maybe not the sexiest pick for a read who never ate his cuisine and can’t anymore - but the literal definition of what this list is about.
Paul Kahan
If you want to know what a chef from Chicago looked, cooked, and thought like from 2010 and beyond look no further. The original hipster chef. From farm to table to rolled up pants - this was the guy. Countless chefs trained there, countless charities supported, and even more awards won. I can almost promise you that every business plan for a contemporary restaurant in Chicago in the past 20 years has mentioned a comparison to Blackbird, Avec, Big star, or Publican. Plus he probably put the west loop on the map. Also probably the reason I fell in love with cooking professionally and decided to make it a career.
Charlie Trotter
He Is the archetype for what most people think of when they think of a chef - the Hell’s Kitchen, all out warfare in pursuit of greatness, that for years after plagued (and continues to) the industry’s culture. So while I don’t seek to laud him, Look more into the personal dealings of the people on Rushmore, there is a lot of ugly too. Also so many of the current household name chefs came through that kitchen. A prolific author, His cooks books honestly still hold up today in so many ways if you compare to modern haute cusine. Like him or hate him, Trotter WAS Chicago fine dining in the 90s and early 2000’s and bled over in to pop culture everywhere. He was one of the first Chicago chefs to expand his restaurants beyond Chicago to Vegas. Very successful grocery line. He slightly makes the list over Bayless because of the incredible list of accomplished chefs who trained there. He also brought exotic international ingredients and a focus on vegetables as the center of a plate to a city where it wasn’t very present.
Honorable Mentions
Rick Bayless
I wish he was on there. Really good guy… maybe the first major contemporary chef to harness the power or what makes Chicago great - cooking with attention to culture and heritage. Provided countless thoughtful opportunities for career advancement Hispanic kitchen employees - and the chance to cook food that was personal to them at the highest level- when many chefs were not. Also arguably Chicago's most notable and one of the first national TV celebrity chefs. Took Chicago dining into people’s homes. Also made river north a dining destination and had a strong impact in the grocery store with his chips and salsa.
Tony Hu
The mayor of Chinatown who also brought the food beyond those geographical boundaries. His influence on Chinese cuisine’s popularity isn’t anything new to talk about but I personally wonder how many curiosity doors he has opened for diners to try other cuisines or neighborhoods they weren’t familiar with. How many people he brought to dine south of downtown. I don’t historically really remember a lot of publications lauding the culinary accumen of asian or ethnic cuisine other than sushi when they were praising his various “laos” - and I have to think that lead to a lot of other people and cuisines being acknowledged. For a number of years it felt like he was opening a restaurant a month, Followed by about 2 or 3 similar places by other owners in the same style.
Stephanie Izard
The reason why people have come to Chicago to eat in the past 10 years. The restaurant that influenced the most cooks to move here in the past 10 years to work. The most accomplished and visible TV chef in Chicago. The biggest presence in grocery stores and home pantries of any Chicago chef. The chef who probably is financially responsible for the boom of the Boka restaurant group. And still very much growing. Has maybe had a larger impact in a ten year period that any other chef.
The next tier down… because why not:
Tony Mantuano
Michael Kornick
Gabino Sotelino
John Hogan
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Cecilio Rodriguez, Chef/Owner - Fat Cap
Michael Carlson
His thoughtful carelessness is something that I’ve always been inspired by. Calling the restaurant for weeks at a time to get a reservation, only to be hung up on, just made me want to be there more. Not being afraid to make crazy flavor combinations and textures. Loud music that was almost disorienting. It’s probably the fine dining restaurant I’ve been to the most in the city. He too has spit out a ton of great cooks and chefs that I have worked with, for, and can call friends. (Norman Fenton, Brian Fisher, Noah Sandoval, & Wilson Bauer)
Paul Kahan
I’ve had the luxury of working with Blackbird alumni throughout my career. His restaurants/businesses have spewed out not only great food but great chefs.
Jason Hammel
What a fuckin G! Am I right?
Mariya Moore-Russell
Full disclosure, she is one of my best friends. I have worked with her at 3 different restaurants including Kumiko. I’ve known her since she was like 19. Even back then I knew she was gonna be something big.
Her drive is sickening. Ever since our 1st job together, I have tried to mimic her swag. The way she approaches food is humble and authentic. The goal with her is taste. Who cares how it looks if it tastes like shit.
First. Female. Black. Michelin Star Chef. EVER. She did that. Not an easy task. She made it look effortless.
Honorable Mentions
Rick Tramonto
Rick Bayless
Homaro Cantu
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Oscar Samayoa, Chef/Owner - Birria Tatatacos
Paul Kahan
Jason Hammel
Ryan Pfeiffer
Rick Bayless ( only because I grew up on PBS and would love to see him In Mexico in the trenches with the old ladies in the middle of nowhere )
Honorable Mentions
Chef Jenner Tomaska (Esme) great father, amazing chef and gave me a opportunity to have a dinner at his restaurant just because I asked lol.
Diana Davila -my mentor, I can go on and on about chef. One of the strongest women I know. 2 years under her belt taiught me so much. She’s like my Tia
Last but not least
Zachary Jean Edward Hertz- a special person once asked me “who is your favorite chef” and I never thought about it till I was asked took a minute but zach was my answer. You probably never heard of him but he has worked at some amazing restaurants In Chicago (giant, yusho, Elizabeth) very talented and underrated Chef the knowledge and love this man has for food keeps me on my toes.
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Mike Satinover, Chef/Owner - Akahoshi Ramen
Hard choice. I think about this holistically for what these chefs did for Chicago’s dining scene. My picks are probably pretty standard, not surprising.
Rick Bayless: I don’t think any Chicago Chef group is complete without Rick Bayless. One of the first chef/owner/operators in the City, who took his immense passion for a craft and culture and developed a standout restaurant with it. I’d be surprised if most people didn’t put him on their list. His impact of Chicago’s dining scene, as a result is unmatched. Would there even be chef-owned restaurants without Rick Bayless? I don’t really know. He’s also just an insanely awesome guy, a rarity in a brutal industry.
Homaru Cantu: This is personal to me. At the height of “molecular gastronomy” Cantu was unmatched, his food provocatively weird and sometimes awkward. He made food quirky and not too serious, but still also serious, if that makes sense. The meal I had at Moto was bizarre, unsettling, and extremely memorable. I think about it all the time. He did his own thing and with the homogenization of so much food in Chicago, I find that admirable. However, he is a story of immense pressure and loss that this industry brings. It sucks that he isn’t still here with us.
Grant Achatz: I think this speaks for itself. Achatz has built an empire and his work is pivotal for pushing fine dining in Chicago. Everyone who thinks of fine dining in Chicago thinks of Alinea. There’s a reason for that. Probably because his food continues to push on ideas. You know how currently, Michelin likes menus where diners move through the restaurant? Achatz did that like 10 years ago before it was cool. He plays with sound, light, texture, color, in ways that I think a lot of chefs didn’t really nudge into until they saw others do it. I haven’t been to Alinea in a long, long time, but it’s distinct for what it brought fine dining to in the city.
Charlie Trotter: This guy is notoriously toxic but his influence was unmatched in Chicago’s dining. Fine dining, chef-driven menus, philanthropy, he had it all.
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Jonathon Sawyer, Chef/Partner, Kindling
I grew up in a time of pre-internet inspiration, i spent my free time at book stores & libraries reading the text of my heroes. Copying down stories, anecdotes, anthropology & recipes that sparked my interest. So my Culinary Mount rushmore would naturally start with some authors.
For me as a young culinarian reading the “French Menu Cookbook” by Richard Olney was a life changing experience. His approach to seasonal ingredients & recipes, classic wine pairings & the why for each pairing and regional french cooking was enlightening. The novelty of a regular & fancy menu for each season with accompanying recipes changed the way I wrote menus permanently. I love the way Richard talks about France & its culinary traditions. You can tell he’s a man who loves French people & respects the kitchens they’ve maintained those traditions in.
My mother & grandmother are huge inspirations for the way I look at food & cooking. I have the fondest of memories gardening & cooking with them, and more often than not the TV would be tuned into PBS & the Icon Julia Child. Her stature & syncopated tones & passion are unrivaled.
Truly one of one and someone who generations of women, chefs & tv personalities can aspire to be. So much so that we even named of Beef Suet french fries here at kindling after her, and for former affinity for the Pr-1993 version McDonalds used to serve.
One fateful day in 2001 at a culinary bookstore in Manhattan I found myself reading an original UK paperback copy of “Nose to Tail eating : a kind of British cookbook” by Fergus Henderson and I was in love! This approach to the frugality of a butcher minded chef was absolutely relatable. The idea that in trained hands offal can be a delicacy was a challenge I accepted. I simply couldn't get enough of ferg’s British coloquilism & units of measure. Like “knub” to measure butter or “ploush” of herbs, or “let them get to know eachother” as in marinate. This made the book so interesting & the recipe prefaces so memorable. Since then the book has been republished in american known as “the whole beast” and while it is still seminal it isnt as authentic as the OG. As his restaurants are still crushing it in london I love watching their seasonal evolutions and have made the pilgrimage to st johns several times.
Lastly, another American woman who changed the way we think about salt ! and roasted chicken! That‘s Chef Judy Rogers of Zuni Cafe. One of the most iconic restaurants in the Berkley / California Cuisine food revolution & really the greater american food renaissance. She challenged the way we were told to only season just before we cook proteins, by brining & dry curing foods prior to cook. She popularized the idea of Roasted Chicken for Two being the ultimate test of a chefs skills & her restaurant lives on in her honor and is definitely worth the trip
My honorable mentions for Mt Rushmore would probably be Apicius the Author of the first known western / roman cookbook an OG. Martin Picard who’s unabashedly Quebecois book & restaurant Pied de Cochon caused a maximalist & bacchanalian upheaval. Just to name a few..
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Jacob Schneider, Chef/Owner - Schneider’s Deli
Jean Banchet- He’s the OG. First “celebrity” chef of the area I think
Paul Kahan- not sure of a more influential chef in the last 20 years
Charlie Trotter- it seems like all descended from his house
Grant Achatz- champion of modern food in Chicago
Honorable mentions
Rick Bayless
Gabino Sotelino
Jimmy Bannos
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Todd Stein, Culinary Director, VP of Culinary, Ballyhoo Hospitality
I have to go with Chefs that in my mind were game changers as MJ was to basketball and as much as someone like Louis Szathmary could be considered, I am leaving him off of my list
Charlie Trotter. No Chef has contributed to making Chicago a culinary destination. He made fine dining in Chicago a thing. The tree of talent that was in his kitchen and have gone on to amazing success sets him apart.
Jean Banchet. A restaurant like eating in France that as in the Chicago suburbs. Unreal, he was a force to be reckoned with, in a similar way to me that Jean Luis Palladin was. There is no such Roland Liccioni in the suburbs with out Banchet
Grant Achatz. A true game changer. Chicago never saw anything like this before. He took what Charlie did to the next level. Again, great chefs that have worked with him have contributed greatly to others and their own restaurants after working with Grant
Paul Kahan. A game changer who came out of nowhere(Erwin among other places). Paul’s understanding of farmer relations and how people like to eat, set him apart. All of the restaurants were game changers when they opened as well as the amazing talent he cultivated.
Honorable Mentions
Michael Kornick. He and Jerry Kleiner made Randolph street what it became. No more important culinarian has contributed to a single neighborhood as he has. Stephanie Isard doesn’t happen without Mk in the west loop first. Myself, Erick Willams, and Mindy Segal are a few of the many that spent considerable amount of time working with Michael.
Rick Bayless. Thought all of us what Mexican food can be. One of the first Chicago Chefs to have a tv presence and have a great line of shelf products.
Tony Mantuano. For so many years had Chicago on the map with high end Italian food. Also a great cultivator of talent including Missy Robbins, Sarah Gruenberg and Joe Flamm among others not as well known.
There you have it. I could have included more on the HM like Jason Hammel
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Aaron Steingold, Chef/Owner - Steingold’s Deli
Paul Kahan
Charlie Trotter
Diane Dávila
Sarah Grueneberg
Honorable Mentions
Erick Williams
Carrie Nahabedian
Giuseppe Tentori
Bill Kim
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Jenner Tomaska, Chef/Owner - Esme & Bar Esme
Charlie Trotter- pioneer of fine dining. Brought national recognition to Chicago.
Grant Achatz - I mean you [Nagrant] helped write the book 😬
Paul Kahan- Farm to table/head to tail cooking. Really the first chef to highlight local farms. First person to put the farm’s name on a menu. How many places have Slagel written on their menu because of him?
Rick Bayless
Honorable Mentions:
Roland Liccioni
Rick Tramanto
Homaro Cantu
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Erick Williams, Chef/Owner - Virtue, Mustard Seed Kitchen, Top This Mac and Cheese, Daisies Po Boy and Tavern
(No order)
Jean Joho
Carrie Nahabedian
Roland Liccioni
Tony Mantuano
Rick Bayless
Grant Achatz
Paul Kahan
Sarah Stegner
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Lee Wolen, Chef/Partner - Boka, Alla Vita & GG’s
Rick Bayless
Paul Kahan
Grant Achatz
Charlie Trotter
Honorable Mentions
Jean Joho
Jean Banchet
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Scott Worsham & Sari Zernich Worsham, Owners - MFK
Sari List
Charlie Trotter
Carrie Nahabedian
Jean Banchet
Priscilla Satkoff
Honorable Mentions
Sara Stegner
Rick Bayless
Michael Kornick
Scott List
This is harder for me because I left the city in '85 and didn't return until 2009, so my list leans more contemporary by necessity.
Jean-Claude Poilevey (can anyone who cares about restaurants imagine Chicago without Le Bouchon? It's a touchstone. He was the OG of my old-school restaurant heart.)
Paul Kahan (can anyone who cares about restaurants imagine contemporary Chicago restaurants without avec? It's not possible. Paul & crew kick-started this town.)
Jason Hammel (can anyone who cares about restaurants imagine contemporary Chicago restaurants without Lula Cafe? It's an instition and the backbone of an entire neighborhood.)
David Posey (The Ninja Assassin. Top level execution of perfection delivered sotto voce.)
Honorable Mentions:
Koren Grieveson (I miss her cooking very much. She deserved more attention than she got, I think.)
Diana Davila (Arguably moving the dial for Americans of what Mexican cuisine truly is more than anyone in the country, all while attempting to change the very nature of this screwed up business.)
Jason Vincent (Super consistent, delicious, comforting food -- always. As much as I love Giant, I still miss Nightwood. It was easier to get a table.)
Damn, this was hard. I've left some obvious ones off because people are going to have them on their lists (Mantuano, Bayless, Duffy, Izard, Williams, etc -- the more nationally recognized chefs) -- because I'm naturally underdog driven, I guess? Honestly, I think it's because their restaurants could exist in any city in America, except perhaps Eric Williams. My choices feel more ony-in-Chicago, at least to me.
I'd like to note that many of my favorite chefs came out of either Kahan's or Hammel's kitchens. That should put them both on the all-time Rushmore list.
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Donald Young - Chef/Owner - Ducksel
Jean Banchet - Chef Jean Banchet changed the dining landscape in America. He made French cuisine approachable to the American population and made Chicago a destination city for food.
Roland Liccioni - Chef Roland Liccioni helped keep Chicago a destination city when taking over Le Francais. Using his influence of French and Asian ingredients, melding them together to change the future of dining with fusion.
Charlie Trotter - Chef Charlie Trotter changed how we approached food and dining. Influencing the way we look at ingredients and how we respect them.
Grant Achatz - Chef Grant Achatz changed the dining landscape with his avant garde techniques and long multi course menus.
Honorable mentions..
Noah Sandoval
Curtis Duffy
Jason Hammel (debated about putting him at the top for his focus on seasonality and changing how important farm to table is with sustainability.)
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Jonathan Zaragoza, Chef (most recently at Calli, also of the Birrieria Zaragoza family
Ok so it’s a tough one for me because I look up to a lot of people in this town BUT here it goes. OGs or people that I think really laid the groundwork for the landscape here:
Grant Achatz
Rick Bayless
Charlie Trotter
Erick Williams
Honorable mentions:
Noah Sandoval
Tim Flores and Genie Kwon at Kasama
Mindy Segal
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Andrew Zimmerman - Chef/Partner - Proxi & Sepia
Charlie Trotter, I mean how could you not? Sure there was Joho, Gabino Sotelino, Jean Banchet and Michael Foley (among others) before him, but I think that, as his friend Emeril might say, Charlie kicked it up to notches heretofore unknown. He did as much or more than anyone to cement the idea that Chicago is a world class food city. His impact is still felt even years after his death.
Grant Achatz. Again, kinda obvious but how can you deny his impact?
Rick Bayless. World class authority on Mexican food, multiple successful restaurants, educator and at least partially responsible early on for the viability of so many local growers.
Paul Kahan. Again, maybe obvious but, a mentor to so much talent (like everyone else mentioned above), wildly successful restaurants and another big supporter of local growers. I think all four have had an outsized impact on the development of the restaurant landscape in Chicago.
So many of our kitchens are run by chefs directly (or indirectly) impacted by those four.
Honorable mentions:
Carrie Nahabedian. Really could be right there too…mentor, creator of delicious food, champion of the local grower.
Jason Hammel. Same. So important to so many. Great cook and mentor, great supporter of local farms, built one of the city’s most beloved restaurants from practically nothing and awesome person to boot.
Erick Williams. He quietly killed it at MK for years and since heading out on his own at Virtue he has increased his impact on the city’s dining scene exponentially. He is a great cook, mentor and making great strides as an active voice for his immediate community and everyone else’s as well. A really inspirational man.
Surprised to see only ONE (!) mention of Rivk Tramonto and ZERO for Gale Gand. I never ate at Tru, but come on!
Mine - based on reputation and inspiration for most:
Charlie Trotter - duh
Jean Banchet - double duh
Rick Bayless - could upscale Mexican food in America truly exist without him?
Grant Achatz - the face of American molecular gastronomy
Honorable mentions - if anyone wants to chisel more faces..
Stephanie Izard - as a chef said, she made BOKA the success it is now - my personal pick for best chef whose food I've eaten. She is the best thing to happen to Chicago food of my writing era
Paul Kahan - my opinion of One Off's restaurants post Big Star isn't as impressive as what came before, but his mentorship and his push for farm to table made a bigger impact than any other chef. Plus, he planted the seeds to make Fulton Market/West Loop grow to become what it is.
Mindy Segal - trailblazer - a strong female presence in an era that had few.
Homeroom Cantu - this is as much a personal/sentimental pick as it is about merit. He took the piss out of the molecular gastronomy seriousness and truly became the "Willy Wonka" of Chicago's food scene. He was a friend. He took me seriously as a writer when few did. Meals at Moto may not have ever been front to back perfect, but they were always unlike anything I've ever written because he was unafraid to try, fail, regroup and come back perfected. I miss Omar deeply.
Just a few more...
Michael Carlson - imagine a biography of him and Schwa???
Chris Curren - made me like an egg - if you know me, that's huge.
Jimmy Bannos - when Heaven on Seven closed, it was a gut punch. My favorite place for a good meal. I got to become friends with Jimmy and his family. Rest in peace, George.
Tony Mantuano - another heavy hitter that was gracious with me and put Italian food on another level in Chicago.
Ryan Poli - Tavernita was a huge space (it's now Avec 2.0), it was flashy and meant to attract the beautiful people, but Poli was serious about the food. Another friend.
Martin Fosse - this guy owned Andersonville for a long time. His former restaurant in Wicker Park is where I met him and I adored that place.
Doug Sohn - After waiting in a long ass line to see The Doors at the McCormick theater (rip) when it was released, I vowed to never do so again. I broke that vow I don't know how many times to eat at Hot Doug's. Once I popped in just a bit before closing and it was the only short wait I ever had.
Fun exercise. Now I’ve got some new chefs to check out too. Thanks for asking us to join the party!