It Gets Better With Age

One of Chicago's very best restaurants keeps killing it

I have a few blind spots when it comes to fine dining.

Some people might say blind spots are all I have.

The ones I’m keenly aware of are a desire for iconoclastic small operators pursuing innovation at all turns even if it comes at the expense of margins or their ultimate survival.

Excitement and novelty however don’t always pay the tolls. If they did, Moto and the late chef Homaro Cantu would still be around.

Some of you maybe said, “Who?”

All I can say is you probably missed out on the best culinary deployment of a scientific-grade laser and well-prepared roadkill.