Lula Cafe Wins James Beard Award, Announces New Restaurant "LOULOU"
Yesterday, the Chicago food culture-changing, foundational Logan Square restaurant Lula Cafe won a James Beard Award, Chicago’s only Beard win despite a slew of other nominations.
This will come as no surprise to the thousands of people (including owners Jason Hammel and his wife Amalea Tshilds) who met, got married, had kids and generally built their life around Lula Cafe.
As Lula has grown, so has modern Logan Square. Just as it’s impossible to imagine Berkley without Chez Panisse or Paris without Tour d’ Argent, so too is it impossible to imagine sitting on the grass underneath the shadow of the Illinois Centennial Memorial Monument while taking nips from a secret flask filled with Malort and not see the red and blue “Lula Cafe” sign, whereby the name of the restaurant bursts forth from itself like Athena emerging from the head of Zeus.
If you live in the city, dining here once is an impossibility, because the warmth, the conviviality, and general homey nature of the dining room has a gravity that will absolutely pull you back time and time again. You are always met where you are, and a kindness is always extended that exceeds your expectations. The warmth is never professionally fake or rote, but intentional and appropriate, the kind of reception that a James Beard committee should recognize.
People in the food world like to play the parlor game of naming their “last meal” and I gotta believe there are a lot of people who have relished going out with a heaping portion of Lula’s cinnamon-perfumed and feta-crumbled pasta “yiayia”. To that, I say, what a glorious way to die.
For those with plenty of life to go, the good news is Hammel has announced a new concept called LOULOU opening this summer. LOULOU will offer “weekly Sunday Brunch serving seasonal quiches and bubbles, special sit-down tasting menu dinners, and have a retail component with goods from local Chicago artisans and artists, in addition to offering produce from some of Jason’s farm partners. There will also be an emphasis on dynamic, diverse programming, including collaborative meals with emerging and visiting chefs, talks and performances with industry luminaries, and more.”
I can’t wait, but for now, I’d like to extend my congratulations to the Hammel, Tshilds, and their team, as well as the large alumni network that made and makes Lula Cafe what it is.
Lula Cafe is located at 2537 N. Kedzie in Chicago
in the early 2000's i had a zine. i distributed all around the north side and lula cafe was a place i hit-up. i can't remember if they said yes or no but i remember they were super-sweet and very hospitable even to sum1 unironically buying an elvis sandwich
Legend! Beyond well deserved for Lula and team!