Sho-Time

A review of a “best new” restaurant of 2026 candidate

They say if you stand for nothing, you fall for everything.

I suppose that’s why I’ve always been the kind of critic who writes both positive and negative reviews.

I never written a lot of bad reviews, because like humans, restaurants aren’t usually black and white. There’s a lot of gray and if you look deep enough you can usually find a balance in the experience.

But sometimes, say a place run by a celebrity chef who can’t run a kitchen consistently, or an egocentric deluded owner, enters a space which is the whitest shade of pale.

When that happens, the gloves come off.