Ruth Reichl is a hero to most, but she never meant shit to me. That’s an absolute lie. I’ve read all her books, most of her columns, and I subscribe to her Substack newsletter La Briffe. As a young writer I imitated her style. Sometimes I still drop callbacks to things like her famous Le Cirque review in my own writing.
Kudos to Au Cheval! I used to go to the Pancake House on Bellevue frequently. They don't take reservations and there's always a line on weekends. One Saturday, Kevin Nealon (a few years removed from Saturday Night Live) walked in, saw the line, and gave the host the "don't you know who I am" routine. He was directed to the back of the line and promptly left.
Related but unrelated, are people still of the view that the Stephanie Izard restaurants are good? I have nothing against her and am asking this as a serious question as the disconnect between my own experiences and popular opinion is vast.
Really good, and touched a nerve. Growing up in LA I had relatives who chef’d in reviewed kitchens. I loved her writing, and the word back then was that she was humble and pulled no punches. I thought her tenure at Gourmet was the middle of the fall of my reverence for her. I’ve read every published word she’s written. For all the reasons you intimate I’m right there with you. Cutting the line and making line cooks stay late after cleaning their stations is the epitome of arrogant entitlement. Maybe Jagger is clueless, but a career food writer? As John Kass would no doubt gesture: Moutza!
Kudos to Au Cheval! I used to go to the Pancake House on Bellevue frequently. They don't take reservations and there's always a line on weekends. One Saturday, Kevin Nealon (a few years removed from Saturday Night Live) walked in, saw the line, and gave the host the "don't you know who I am" routine. He was directed to the back of the line and promptly left.
Related but unrelated, are people still of the view that the Stephanie Izard restaurants are good? I have nothing against her and am asking this as a serious question as the disconnect between my own experiences and popular opinion is vast.
Really good, and touched a nerve. Growing up in LA I had relatives who chef’d in reviewed kitchens. I loved her writing, and the word back then was that she was humble and pulled no punches. I thought her tenure at Gourmet was the middle of the fall of my reverence for her. I’ve read every published word she’s written. For all the reasons you intimate I’m right there with you. Cutting the line and making line cooks stay late after cleaning their stations is the epitome of arrogant entitlement. Maybe Jagger is clueless, but a career food writer? As John Kass would no doubt gesture: Moutza!