I really appreciate what you wrote here and also wrestle with knowing when being honest is more helpful or hurtful. Your approach of comparing to similarly rated restaurants is smart, and frustrates me because my experience at Asador Bastian was quite subpar. A few dishes were good but nothing was outstanding. Our service was so bad (our meal took 3 hours and we spent 50% of that with no food/empty drink glasses) and our fish came out cold and full of bones. I don’t make a point of sending food back, but would’ve said something about the boasted “completely deboned” fish if the wait staff took a minute to check in. For what it’s worth, the steak was fine, but not life changing. Yes, you could tell it was quality meat, but the check ended up being over $400 and it didn’t taste *that* good. This begs the question of what’s worse? Most days I would choose a steak that’s affordable over a wildly expensive meal that doesn’t match my expectations. But, I agree with you: I want artistry when I’m eating at a restaurant and will continue spending stupid money looking for it.
Agree with you 100%…ultimately it’s about meeting expectations. And that’s ultimately why Smoque will probably succeed because a lot of people have expectations for good at the right price. Good at the wrong price however who’ll generally fail. You can only be great at a high price.
I really appreciate this write-up (and curiosity about the post got me to subscribe). Your broader point about stars is something that hits home. Thinking back to my college days in cinema studies, I thought of it as the movie vs film conundrum. You don't grade Snakes on a Plane, Lord of the Rings, and The 400 Blows on the same scale. Each one poses different questions and provides different answers, despite being in the same nominal medium.
My experiences at Da Rae Jung (RIP) surpassed a whole lot of high-priced, high-dollar places I've eaten in Fulton market that justify their price on vibes not quality. But I know these experiences are also informed based on those different expectations, my preferences, etc.
So if I see the Trib give a mid-priced place 3 stars, my expectation walking in would be a Bib Gourmand-tier experience. Not necessarily that I'll love it, but it's at that tier such that I would expect to see it on the '24 list. I agree with your assessment of the Trib's review: it seems like the rough edges are glossed over. A grade based on ambition and potential rather than current-state execution.
I went to Daisies recently and agree with you that it’s the best restaurant in the city. Or, the best I’ve been to so far. Based on your review of Smoque it’s probably a restaurant I wouldn’t go to. I read and appreciate thoughtful reviews from knowledgeable and experienced critics and base my dining decisions on them. We definitely can’t depend on Yelp or Open Table reviews for serious criticism. Funny you should mention Ruth Reichl. I’m reading her memoir, Tender at the Bone, right now. It’s quite enjoyable and like Mr. Nagrant, she’s a good writer with a discerning palate. 😘 PS - That hedge fund that owns the Tribune just raised their rates again. 👎
You can call me Mike! I wouldn't say Smoque is bad. It has a lot of things going for it. I just think it's an interesting example that illustrates how rating inflation happens. And if you really want steak I think most people want a nicely aged steak with great flavor seared well. Tho at $19 their cheapest steak is pretty amazing value. Though also how do you charge $19 for a steak and make money?
Ya know, I didn't check the rating, but it felt like 2 stars based on the review. Enough to get me to make a reservation next week (Daisies is happening in August). But I will make sure to try the cheapest steaks over the ribeye for sure.
As someone who really liked Smoque Steak (but acknowledges the same service issues you did), 3 stars on the Tribune's scale is generous. 2.5 would have been appropriate from someone who loved it. And for anyone saying "but that's just half a star," the difference is that 3 stars crosses into elite territory and Smoque Steak isn't that. Journalistic standards in America are mostly dead but that's no reason to completely abandon objectivity in a restaurant review, especially when they could have just had Taco Nick write it and avoid these questions altogether.
I really appreciate what you wrote here and also wrestle with knowing when being honest is more helpful or hurtful. Your approach of comparing to similarly rated restaurants is smart, and frustrates me because my experience at Asador Bastian was quite subpar. A few dishes were good but nothing was outstanding. Our service was so bad (our meal took 3 hours and we spent 50% of that with no food/empty drink glasses) and our fish came out cold and full of bones. I don’t make a point of sending food back, but would’ve said something about the boasted “completely deboned” fish if the wait staff took a minute to check in. For what it’s worth, the steak was fine, but not life changing. Yes, you could tell it was quality meat, but the check ended up being over $400 and it didn’t taste *that* good. This begs the question of what’s worse? Most days I would choose a steak that’s affordable over a wildly expensive meal that doesn’t match my expectations. But, I agree with you: I want artistry when I’m eating at a restaurant and will continue spending stupid money looking for it.
Agree with you 100%…ultimately it’s about meeting expectations. And that’s ultimately why Smoque will probably succeed because a lot of people have expectations for good at the right price. Good at the wrong price however who’ll generally fail. You can only be great at a high price.
I really appreciate this write-up (and curiosity about the post got me to subscribe). Your broader point about stars is something that hits home. Thinking back to my college days in cinema studies, I thought of it as the movie vs film conundrum. You don't grade Snakes on a Plane, Lord of the Rings, and The 400 Blows on the same scale. Each one poses different questions and provides different answers, despite being in the same nominal medium.
My experiences at Da Rae Jung (RIP) surpassed a whole lot of high-priced, high-dollar places I've eaten in Fulton market that justify their price on vibes not quality. But I know these experiences are also informed based on those different expectations, my preferences, etc.
So if I see the Trib give a mid-priced place 3 stars, my expectation walking in would be a Bib Gourmand-tier experience. Not necessarily that I'll love it, but it's at that tier such that I would expect to see it on the '24 list. I agree with your assessment of the Trib's review: it seems like the rough edges are glossed over. A grade based on ambition and potential rather than current-state execution.
Enough with the steakhouses in this town already!
I went to Daisies recently and agree with you that it’s the best restaurant in the city. Or, the best I’ve been to so far. Based on your review of Smoque it’s probably a restaurant I wouldn’t go to. I read and appreciate thoughtful reviews from knowledgeable and experienced critics and base my dining decisions on them. We definitely can’t depend on Yelp or Open Table reviews for serious criticism. Funny you should mention Ruth Reichl. I’m reading her memoir, Tender at the Bone, right now. It’s quite enjoyable and like Mr. Nagrant, she’s a good writer with a discerning palate. 😘 PS - That hedge fund that owns the Tribune just raised their rates again. 👎
Also thanks as always for your support and kind words.
You can call me Mike! I wouldn't say Smoque is bad. It has a lot of things going for it. I just think it's an interesting example that illustrates how rating inflation happens. And if you really want steak I think most people want a nicely aged steak with great flavor seared well. Tho at $19 their cheapest steak is pretty amazing value. Though also how do you charge $19 for a steak and make money?
Ya know, I didn't check the rating, but it felt like 2 stars based on the review. Enough to get me to make a reservation next week (Daisies is happening in August). But I will make sure to try the cheapest steaks over the ribeye for sure.
As someone who really liked Smoque Steak (but acknowledges the same service issues you did), 3 stars on the Tribune's scale is generous. 2.5 would have been appropriate from someone who loved it. And for anyone saying "but that's just half a star," the difference is that 3 stars crosses into elite territory and Smoque Steak isn't that. Journalistic standards in America are mostly dead but that's no reason to completely abandon objectivity in a restaurant review, especially when they could have just had Taco Nick write it and avoid these questions altogether.