Thank you!!! I worked at Les Nomades in 2000. I always hold Les Nomades as a highlight of my life. Roland and Mary Beth are everything you mentioned. I stood right where you filmed. The kitchen has not changed at all. I can hear him calling me “Monsieur” whenever my attention was needed. I never had the opportunity to eat there though. Roland changed me, he made me a professional. His energy and knowledge is endless. Thank you Roland.
I think this is the best piece you've written for this newsletter, Michael. I just reread it again and it was even better this time. Thanks for the wonderful, heartfelt work!
Thank you Bill. I want to do more of these. This one piece represents about 30-40 hours of effort, 12 hours in the kitchen, another 10 hours of reading everything about Roland ever printed, plus another 12-15 hours of writing. Ultimately what I need is more time to pursue these. To get there, my goal is 3-4x growth on paid subs from where I am today. This gets me to sustainable place where I can just make this my only job.
More than your dollars, your friendship and your encouragement has the most impact. Honestly if the only thing I got in this exchange was the Beatles book rec, I win. It was so enjoyable.
This is such a great article, Michael. You should be proud. You’ve captured the essence of Roland and Mary Beth, and illustrated their specialness and the specialness of Les Nomades. I’ve got a great Roland Liccioni story that goes back to 2011!
Totally understand your apprehension before meeting the man himself. I remember the nervousness before calling him to ask for a stage, leading to my internship, turning into me staying and working for him for a few years afterwards. Chef only ever wanted to show and teach the young cooks. If you show that willingness to learn, he will teach you anything you wanted. Anything and everything I do in the kitchen now, I learned it from the man himself. Hell he even taught me how to change a tire! Being Vietnamese, we connected and I was so drawn to working for him, learning directly from him when that is so rare nowadays (being able to learn from the master himself; and not some 30-40yo sous chefs). Thank you for writing this amazing piece about chef Roland. The world needs to know about the gem that is Les Nomades and chef Roland himself.
Thank you for sharing. Yeah, I almost wish he could run a small school for budding cooks. I'm sure the industry will ultimately be ok, but there's so much knowledge there that is so valuable that the world could use.
Chef Coatrieux, the one you mentioned, was also the one leading me to chef Roland when I was still at Kendall. Over the years, a great number of Kendall graduates have gone through the doors of Les Nomades. So dare I say, he did run a cooking school at Nomades, only the learning never stops.
Le Francais was better under Liccioni. My aunt, her best friend and husband brought me on to complete their twice yearly 4 top in the mid 80's. Banchet's food was flamboyant as he was. Liccioni's menu was sharp, to the point, yet still lavish. Carlos' was a less opulent space but just as exacting in menu. There are so few true pre convenience technology craftsmen/women left to marvel with. Thanks so much for this.
Absolutely wonderful Michael Nagrant!! Thank you. So glad you captured and shared the magic of this special evening and a precious moment the spectacular career of Chef Liccioni.
To say damn you're good, would be an understatement!
Happy you put your big boy pants on, a jacket and showed up.
Thanks for writing this masterful piece for us to enjoy. Long live Les Nomades is right. Roland’s story and how he got here is one many should read. Truly fascinating. Cuisinier. True legend.
Btw, I was thrilled by your mention of the Grand Marnier soufflé. My first spoon-in taste as a teenager was like hearing Bonham’s Levee Breaks groove for the first time. Escoffier just knew.
Thank you!!! I worked at Les Nomades in 2000. I always hold Les Nomades as a highlight of my life. Roland and Mary Beth are everything you mentioned. I stood right where you filmed. The kitchen has not changed at all. I can hear him calling me “Monsieur” whenever my attention was needed. I never had the opportunity to eat there though. Roland changed me, he made me a professional. His energy and knowledge is endless. Thank you Roland.
I think this is the best piece you've written for this newsletter, Michael. I just reread it again and it was even better this time. Thanks for the wonderful, heartfelt work!
Thank you Bill. I want to do more of these. This one piece represents about 30-40 hours of effort, 12 hours in the kitchen, another 10 hours of reading everything about Roland ever printed, plus another 12-15 hours of writing. Ultimately what I need is more time to pursue these. To get there, my goal is 3-4x growth on paid subs from where I am today. This gets me to sustainable place where I can just make this my only job.
I guess I should add that there are a few hours of interviews in here too with subjects other than Roland.
This kind of work is well worth the paid sub--I'm glad my dollars are a small part of letting this beautiful work happen.
More than your dollars, your friendship and your encouragement has the most impact. Honestly if the only thing I got in this exchange was the Beatles book rec, I win. It was so enjoyable.
This is such a great article, Michael. You should be proud. You’ve captured the essence of Roland and Mary Beth, and illustrated their specialness and the specialness of Les Nomades. I’ve got a great Roland Liccioni story that goes back to 2011!
That was awesome! As an aging cook myself, sometimes you need to be reminded of what is really at stake. Thank you.
That was a brilliant piece of writing. I welled up a little at the end. I agree diners need to spend that time in a kitchen like that. Thank you!
Totally understand your apprehension before meeting the man himself. I remember the nervousness before calling him to ask for a stage, leading to my internship, turning into me staying and working for him for a few years afterwards. Chef only ever wanted to show and teach the young cooks. If you show that willingness to learn, he will teach you anything you wanted. Anything and everything I do in the kitchen now, I learned it from the man himself. Hell he even taught me how to change a tire! Being Vietnamese, we connected and I was so drawn to working for him, learning directly from him when that is so rare nowadays (being able to learn from the master himself; and not some 30-40yo sous chefs). Thank you for writing this amazing piece about chef Roland. The world needs to know about the gem that is Les Nomades and chef Roland himself.
Thank you for sharing. Yeah, I almost wish he could run a small school for budding cooks. I'm sure the industry will ultimately be ok, but there's so much knowledge there that is so valuable that the world could use.
Chef Coatrieux, the one you mentioned, was also the one leading me to chef Roland when I was still at Kendall. Over the years, a great number of Kendall graduates have gone through the doors of Les Nomades. So dare I say, he did run a cooking school at Nomades, only the learning never stops.
Le Francais was better under Liccioni. My aunt, her best friend and husband brought me on to complete their twice yearly 4 top in the mid 80's. Banchet's food was flamboyant as he was. Liccioni's menu was sharp, to the point, yet still lavish. Carlos' was a less opulent space but just as exacting in menu. There are so few true pre convenience technology craftsmen/women left to marvel with. Thanks so much for this.
This is amazing information. Thank you for sharing.
Absolutely wonderful Michael Nagrant!! Thank you. So glad you captured and shared the magic of this special evening and a precious moment the spectacular career of Chef Liccioni.
BY the way that's your quote at the end. :-)
Thank you, I was tickled pink while reading. Making me almost feel like a cool girl.
You're the coolest. I appreciate you.
To say damn you're good, would be an understatement!
Happy you put your big boy pants on, a jacket and showed up.
Thanks for writing this masterful piece for us to enjoy. Long live Les Nomades is right. Roland’s story and how he got here is one many should read. Truly fascinating. Cuisinier. True legend.
Really vivid and great writing
Probably my favorite thing you've written.
Thanks Brett!
I got engaged there!
I remember watching the handling of a “wine crisis”… someone’s decanting issue I think.
It was like a ballet.
“temple of flair” … priceless. A 4-star read.
Btw, I was thrilled by your mention of the Grand Marnier soufflé. My first spoon-in taste as a teenager was like hearing Bonham’s Levee Breaks groove for the first time. Escoffier just knew.
PS - I remember Carlos fondly.❤️
This was just a magnificent read! Thank you. I found myself crying at the end too. 😢
Great read! Thank you!